Friday December 17 - Auckland
- Malcolm and Rachel met Pepa and me at the airport (35 years later)
- left us at the Sea Breeze Motel in Herne Bay
- Malcolm arranged car hire for our road trip with Jesse
- We walked to the beach and up again to Rachel's
- Rachel gave us dinner
 Sid and his long-lost SE Asia travelling companion and life-long friend Malcolm
Saturday December 18
- Malcolm came at 10am and took us to breakfast on Jervois Road
- then One Tree Hill and the War Museum
- left us at the Art Gallery
- had lunch at 5pm near the Maritime Museum, too late to go in
- got on the wrong bus, went the whole route back down town again, then a cab home
- Malcolm visited, made Wellington-Picton ferry reservations for us, bailed on dinner
- We dined with Rachel at Andiamo on Jervois Road, had red snapper
 One Tree Hill
Sunday December 19
- Malcolm took us to the Maritime Museum
- after, had chowder and beer in a bar
- Malcolm took us to Shirley and Stephen's house to arrange renting Shirley's bungalow on the beach at Whananaki for Christmas
- Stephen had an Ork part in Lord of the Rings, autographed a picture for us
 Sid sailed one of these from Bougainville Island (PNG) into the British Solomons in 1967
 On the way to Coromandel
Monday December 20 - Coromandel Peninsula
- Malcolm drove Rachel and us to Coromandel
- we rented a chalet in a place called Celadon
- had dinner in Umu, a restaurant owned by Graham, one of Malcolm and Rachel's old Coromandel '70s commune survivors
- he came back to our lodging with us and showed us his bird (ornothological) pictures
 Malcolm McSporran, Rachel Stace and Sid Tupper
Tuesday December 21 - Auckland
- went to Heath's house
- went to Colville and The Point, met a Bhuddist hermit
- went to Spaz's house to see him and his orchids but no one home
- drove back to Auckland, picked up the rental car, a blue Toyota Rad-4
- made dinner for Rachel, slept at her house
Wednesday December 22 - Whananaki
- 6am, picked Jesse up at the airport, hadn't seen him for a year
- drove to Whangarei, bought food (green mussels, yum)
- drove on to Whananaki, to Shirley's funky bungalow
- climbed hills, pa (Maori redoubt), lovely views
- spaghetti dinner
- Pepa wins at canasta
Thursday Decemeber 23
- pre-breakfast run with our personal trainer
- drove to Bay of Islands
- returned via ferry to Russel and back roads
- mussels, bbq steak dinner
- Jesse wins Trivial Pursuits (Pepa gets "mercy pie")
 40,000 year old kauri tree couch
Friday December 24
- we all slept til 10
- after OJ went on 2-hr walk out to Motutara Point over the hills and back along the beach
- breakfast - 8 eggs scrambled
- nap, reading
- went to Whangarei for groceries and 6pm Christmas Eve mass
- laundry with a tub & wringer machine
- lamb and mussels for dinner
 Tutukaka coast
 on a pa above Whananaki
 near Whananaki

 near Whananaki

from Motutara Point towards Whananaki
Saturday December 25 - Rotorua
- grueling workout with personal trainer
- more laundry
- left lovely Whananaki at noon
- lunch on beach near Waipu Cove, sun burn, friendly Maoris
- drove through Auckland, on to smelly (thermal baths) Rotorua
- hard to find accomodation, got a kitchenette at Cosy Cottage Intetrnational Holiday Park
- scared (they warned us), reserved a Dec 27 Nelson doss on the phone
- stir-fry dinner
 Pepa at Waipu Cove
 Auckland
Sunday December 26 - Picton ferry
- laundry, tepid hot springs bathe
- visited park with boiling mud holes
- drove on to Wellington
- visited my old flat on Glenmore Street
- dinner at cineplex, "National Treasure"
- called Rachel at her Mum's place, with her sisters. We disappointed them (and me) by not visiting
- drove around til about 11pm, then to the ferry terminal
- ferry ride 1:30 - 4am, slept in upright chairs
 Rotorua
 maybe the coolest one-room apartment I ever had (1968)
Monday December 27 - Nelson
- from Picton in the dark, drove on under a full moon to the dawn
- slept 1.5 hrs in Havelock waiting for the gas station to open
- bakery breakfast, arrived in Nelson at 9am
- went to beach - Tahunanui - sunburned!
- did stretching to relieve Dec 25 workout
- checked into Brook Valley Motor Camp, 2 room motel unit with kitchenette, up in the hills above Nelson
- grocery shopping, drove around, watched kite surfers at Tahunanui
- pasta and schnitzel for dinner
 Tahunanui beach, Nelson
Tuesday December 28
- Jesse and I walked up to a ridge overlooking Nelson, a Grouse Grind
- walked in the rain on the beach at Tahunanui
- dinner: salmon and scallops
- they have Tuesday night at the movies in NZ too - saw Bridget Jones Diary II
- reading "The Crossing"




 who's that purple guy?
Wednesday December 29 - Greymouth
- adios to Nelson in the rain
- missed Buller Gorge - looked exciting
- Richport to Greymouth seascapes - Tasman Sea storm, amazing waves, hillsides of fern trees
- stopped at the Pancakes and blowholes (tide too low), raining too hard to photograph
- South Beach Motel
- dinner: hamburger patties, strawberry cheesecake
- HARD rain (350mm in 24 hours)
 Tasman Sea
Thursday December 30 - Christchurch
- still raining in the morning
- stormy beach, full rivers
- continued south then east to Arthur's Pass
- kea bird at pass. These birds are reputed to kill sheep.
- cave stream at lunch stop, fields of purple lupin
- Hotel Grand Chancellor near Cathedral square
- lamb chops for dinner
- movie - Ocean's 12 (worth missing)
 kea at Arthur's Pass
Friday December 31 - New Year's Eve!
- gym workout
- Avon River row boat, sore bum
- went to South New Brighton beach, windy, cool, kite surfers
- hard to find a restaurent open at 10pm, dined Thai finally
- concert in Cathedral Square, fireworks
 on the Avon River in Christchurch
 kite surfing
 New Year's Eve
Saturday January 1 2005 - Mount Cook
- left Christchurch at noon, hung over
- lunch at Lake Tekapo
- Mt. Cook clouded over
- bunks in full 10-person dorm at Glenntanner Park
- pasta dinner cooked in communal kitchen
- walked down to torquoise lake, early to bed at 10pm
- Pepa wished death to an old Belgian geezer with sleep apnea
 Lake Pukaki
 sacking out in the dorm at Glenntanner Park
 Mt Cook from Lake Pukaki
Sunday January 2 - Queenstown
- early breakfast - Mt Cook clear
- 8am coffee at the Hermitage
- walked to Hooker Lake - 3.5 hours
- lunch in Twizel
- in Queenstown, Discovery Lodge, backpacker hostel in the town centre with bar, internet lounge
- Jesse and I walked 1km to a supermarket to buy dinner
- stirfry in amazing stainless steel communal kitchen
- evening walk on esplanade
- street noise - sleeping with earplugs helped
 looking back to Lake Pukaki



 Mount Cook, 3755m, the highest peak in Australasia






Monday January 3
- Jesse and Sid do AJ Hackett bungy jump
- dull weather
 the before-jump picture
 Jesse during
Tuesday January 4 - Kaia Poi
- have to race back to Auckland - hard drive to just north of Christchurch: Kaia Poi
- rainy
- funky motel
- Sid broils awful stuffed lamb for dinner
- hedgehog
Wednesday January 5 - Hastings
- we learn that our ferry reservation was for Jan 4 so we forfeit $285 - BASTARDS!!!
- hard drive to Picton, make the 1pm ferry with seconds to spare, $325 for a car, 3 people for 3 hr ride
- calm ferry crossing
- we drive straight off the ferry onto the highway towards Hawkes Bay
- spectacularly rainy through Wanganui Gorge
- motel in Hastings, beside the racetrack
 Picton ferry
Thursday January 6 - Auckland
- Napier is so pretty. The town centre burned down in the 1920s and they rebuilt it in art deco
- Jes and Pepa went for a run on the beach esplanade while I climbed Bluff Hill for the view
- lunch in McDonalds in Taupo
- Hyatt Regency in Auckland
- we had chinese take-out dinner in the suite with Rachel and Malcolm
 Bluff Hill, Nelson

Friday January 7 - en route to Bangkok
- worked out with Jesse in the gym
- Jesse checked into the Auckland Central Backpackers. His flight back to Vancouver is on the 10th.
- shopping: oven thermometer, egg beater, write pictures on CD for Jesse to take home
- stopped at Rachel's to return her coat, watched her son Ted risk hands and sight making bombs out of firecrackers
- drove to drop off car at rental office, meet Malcolm
- Malcolm took us to the airport
- Jesse took the bus into the city (sniff)
- flight late leaving Brisbane
 airport farewell
Saturday January 8 - Dhaka
- arrived Bangkok 5:30am
- arrived Dhaka 12:00
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